BACILLUS/ACORUS CALAMUS ROOT EXTRACT FERMENT

Conditioning Agent

62

Moderate

About BACILLUS/ACORUS CALAMUS ROOT EXTRACT FERMENT

A fermented extract of Acorus calamus (sweet flag) root, a traditional medicinal rhizome whose safety in cosmetics is debated due to variable beta-asarone content depending on plant chemotype.

Detailed Analysis

Acorus calamus rhizome contains essential oil components including beta-asarone (a phenylpropene derivative), which has shown carcinogenic potential in rodent studies and is subject to regulatory scrutiny. EU cosmetics law restricts Acorus calamus absolute (CAS 91745-89-0) in final cosmetic products; however, the volatile oil fraction (which concentrates beta-asarone) is distinguished from aqueous or ferment extracts which may contain negligible amounts. Bacillus fermentation and subsequent processing significantly reduces essential oil and beta-asarone content. Safety depends critically on chemotype and processing—Indian-origin Acorus calamus (tetraploid, high beta-asarone) presents greater concern than Java or diploid varieties.

What It Does

SKIN CONDITIONING - HUMECTANT

Skin Benefits

  • ✓ Skin conditioning
  • ✓ Humectant
  • ✓ Traditional anti-inflammatory use

Known Concerns

  • ⚠ Beta-asarone content varies by chemotype - suspected carcinogen under EU review
  • ⚠ Indian tetraploid chemotype has higher risk; diploid/Java types lower risk
  • ⚠ EU restricts the absolute but ferment extracts require purity documentation

Safety Score

62

Moderate

Based on EU regulatory data, published safety research, and ingredient function analysis.

References

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EU CosIng Database

European Commission cosmetic ingredient registry

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This information is for educational purposes only and does not constitute medical advice. Always consult a healthcare professional for skin concerns or allergies.